For a luxury brand, Panerai has an unusual history. Throughout most of its existence Panerai watches have not been available for public purchase.
The origin
In 1860 Italian watch maker Giovanni Panerai opened up his first watch shop. He taught watchmaking and was an authorized dealer of the top Swiss watch brands for many years. By the early 1900’s, managed by his grandson Guido Panerai, the company expanded into developing dive equipment, gauges and compasses for the Regia Marina (the Royal Italian Navy).
Almost all Panerai watches were designed and manufactured by Rolex SA during this period. The Panerai Radiomir, unveiled in 1916, was revolutionary for its exceptional readability in the dark, a sought after trait during WW1. The markers on the watch face were coated in a self luminous radium-based paint. (The effects of radiation were not yet understood.) It was ideal for the navy due to its brightness and exceptional adhesion underwater.
Panerai has continued to draw inspiration from its historical navy models proven by its most popular watches, the updated Radiomir and Luminor series. Everyone knows a Panerai when they see one. The family of watches all share a similar bold aesthetic. For example, the large cases typically have a pillow shape, topped by a round bezel.
The public Launch
It was not until 1993 that the company began to sell products in the civilian market. The first collection available drew inspiration from the models created for WW2 commandos. The watch line happened to catch the eye of Sylvester Stallone who became a dedicated fan. Stallone’s endorsement was a huge boon for the company and is credited with catapulting the brand to worldwide fame. More on that story here.
In 1997 Panerai was acquired by what is now Richemont SA, the third largest luxury goods company in the world.
2005 marked the launch of their first in-house movement: a hand-wound calibre with GMT function given the name P.2002 to commemorate the year its production plant opened. In 2014 they opened a new manufacturing building in Neuchâtel Switzerland. By this time Panerai had a range of in-house chronographs to go along with the GMT.
Panerai’s luxury watches have a rich maritime history and an excellent mix between Italian design and Swiss technology. If you’re interested in a Panerai, check out our selection.
