The Design and Evolution of the Rolex Submariner

The Rolex Submariner is a classic sports watch designed for diving. In fact, it’s the most famous dive watch in history and is the link between the underwater world and Rolex as a luxury status symbol. Let’s take a look back at its origin and evolution. During the first decade of the 1900s pocket watches were everywhere. Around this time wrist watches, known as wristlets were looked down upon. German watchmaker Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, was an early believer in the potential of the wristwatch and made it his life’s work to popularize them. Nobody, including Wilsdorf, could have imagined what was to come. 

Rolex has become a multi-billion dollar company and wristwatches have grown from a military tool to a status symbol and arguably the most popular fashion accessory in existence. The Rolex Submariner has been undeniably integral in this progression.

History

Throughout the first half of the 1900’s wrist watches gained popularity as a military tool and diving necessity. The Rolex Oyster was first patented and launched in 1927 becoming the first commercially viable waterproof watch. 

The origin of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner: In the early 1950s, René-Paul Jeanneret, a Rolex executive and diving enthusiast, pitched the idea of a diving watch that was fashionable enough to be worn every day to Wilsdorf. 

The Rolex Submariner debuted at Baselworld in 1954. With this engineering triumph the watch was stylish and versatile enough to be worn with just about anything; from a tuxedo to a dive suit. The 6200, the 6204, and the 6205 were released the following year.

Its iconic status has only grown because its appearance has barely changed for decades. They got it right on the first go around. There have actually been many changes over the years but the essential style has always remained the same. Materials have improved, movements have been upgraded, additional colors have been introduced, precious stones and precious metal versions have been added. While it’s rarely used for its original purpose it set the standard for divers’ watches and is likely the most important sports watch ever made.

The Submariner’s reputation took a huge leap in 1962 when Sean Connery wore a 6538 model in Dr. No. This was a breakout role for Connery in the James Bond saga and people took notice. The James Bond character continued to wear a Submariner for 6 more films which brought the watch to an even wider audience and made the watch synonymous with stylish attire. (The 5513 worn in 4 films is a non-chronometer Rolex, which makes it one of a kind. Rolex made the Vintage Rolex Submariner 5513 model from 1962 through the 1980s.)

The addition of a date window to the Roelx Submariner 1680, in 1966, was the most significant change to the Rolex Submariner in its then-13-year history. Not a huge change but this propelled the watch further beyond the diving world.

The 16610 was produced from 1989 to 2010 and is one of the most frequently counterfeited Rolex watches and possibly the most well known model. Each Submariner 16610 is crafted from stainless steel with a 40mm black dial with luminescent watch hands and white gold circle hour markers protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. 

When the Submariner turned 50 in 2003, Rolex unveiled the 16610LV model with a striking green ceramic bezel, aka “Hulk”, to celebrate the anniversary. This special-edition collector’s piece was discontinued in 2010. 

The modern era Rolex dive watches have improved their functionality and materials. A Submariner is now water-resistant to 300m. Rolex is also known for creating their own unique alloys for their watches. They have their own private foundry where they’ve developed formulas for three types of gold in addition to platinum and stainless steel.

In the mid 200’s, Rolex developed Paraflex, Parachrom and Cerachrom. Paraflex is an efficient shock absorber that improves the watches shock resistance by 50%. Parachrom is an alloy of zirconium, oxygen, and niobium used in Rolex’s hairsprings. It is up to ten times more shock resistant than the average hairspring and paramagnetic. In addition, Cerachrom is Rolex’s version of a ceramic bezel. It looks great on a watch thanks to its shiny appearance and is also practical due to its resistance to scratching and fading. 

Newest models

In the new 2020 models the case size increased to 41mm replacing the once-standard Submariner size of 40mm. Rolex also widened the Oyster bracelet of the Submariner 41. The Submariner 41 is fitted with a 21mm bracelet while the Submariner 40 included a 20mm wide bracelet.

The recently-discontinued Submariner 40 collection runs on Caliber 3135 (for date versions) and Caliber 3130 (for the no date version) with a 48 hour power reserve. The Submariner 41 are Caliber 3235 (date version) and Caliber 3230 (no date version) have a 70 hour power reserve. 

The black dial features hour markers with a blue glow in low light using Rolex’s Chromalight luminescents. The dial also features  polished steel rims and a printed seconds track can be found on the perimeter. The hour markers use a combination of different shapes: index hour markers are used for the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions. All other hour markers aside from the triangle hour marker at the 12 o’clock position use a round shape. Submariner Date models continue to sport the Cyclops magnification lens protruding above the date window.

With all the new technologies developed and implemented in the Submariner it has only made it more accurate, durable and reliable. What hasn’t changed is the iconic look and quality of the most important sports watch of all time. Checkout or Rolex Submariners here and add one to your collection today!